灵魂冲浪人

I wouldn't change what happened to me, because then I wouldn't have this chance in front of all of you. This chance to embrace moere people than I ever could have with two arms. I was born to surf, this is why I wake up at the crack of dawn every day. This is why I endure belly brashes, reef cuts, muscles so tired they feel like noodles. And I've learned that life is a lot like surfing.when you get caught in the impact zone, you need to get right back up. Because you never know what's over the next wave. And if you have faith, anything is possible, anything at all.

I don't regret to spend nearly two hours to watch the film. I know somebody may say it is just an inspiring movie with nothing special. But what I really want to say is that the film is matched to me, at least it can comfort my hurt heart right now. I have to admit that I always like to compare with others and that's the reason why I am not happy. I envy others' talents and personalities, but I can't find a way to catch up with them. Consequently, I am addicted myself to fantasy, which means unrealistic images forming out of control. Until now, I feel better and have a clear understanding of what I really want. I still remember the most inspiring part in this film is Bethany went to Thailand and taught the little girl how to surf. She helped her out and gave her great courage to have a try. From then on, she knew what she really wants. It's not to win the final game but to play, to carry out her potential on surf and to show her love in her favorite sport. She said "who would thought that teaching a kid to surf would teach me that surfing isn't the most important thing in the world and that sth else is---love. Bigger than any tidal wave,more powerful than any fear." Yeah, I think she got the motivation from helping those guys struggling on the brink of survival. She gave them hope and in the mean time, she regained confidence. And the faith kept her overcome all the difficulties in her surf career. Finally, she made a big success---not because she win the final game(actually her score was cancelled since she succeeded after the horn was up ) but because she enjoyed surfing and set a great example for anyone who wants to realize a dream. Anything is possible!!!When you feel frustrated and lost yourself in the swirl, watch the film again and you will have some new thoughts.

    抛开中西方思想的差异，就人性的美丑来说，中国怎么没有拍出过类似此深度的电影？
   看看张艺谋的【三枪】、冯小刚的【非诚勿扰】。。。除了讨好观众，博大家哈哈一笑外，从影院出来后、人彻底静下来的时候，它还能给我们带来什么？也许是更大的空虚，再看看他们那一幅嘴脸，你们为中国社会的进步带来了什么？一个个酒色过度的丑恶嘴脸，真实可悲。
   一个好的电影，剧本固然重要，但导演的理解却是灵魂，没有丰富的生活阅历，没有令人敬仰的态度，一定没有生机，国导们除了潜规则那些可怜的女孩们，有多少精力是放在影片本身的？
    哎，说说电影本身吧：
    确实是触及心灵的片子，大海像生活，虽然给人类带来的伤害，但人类从大海索取和得到的远远大于伤害，感恩大海、感恩生活。

我是在看了美国版的The Amazing Race 后， 发现里面的一个断臂女孩带着自己的丈夫上节目， 超过常人的适应能力以及平衡能力使她在比赛中获胜。

后来，发现真的有一部电影描述这个真人真事时，实在是太兴奋了，目不转睛地把电影看完。很害怕看到鲨鱼吃人时候的片段， 幸好， 导演也只是一笔带过， 更多的还是去描写这个比同龄人拥有更沉着冷静的品质的小女孩。

有人说这个故事有参假， 但是， 看完了电影花絮以及TAR的采访后， 你可以发现这个女孩身上的一种与生俱来的乐观精神， 以及她笃信自己是天生的Surfer， 让她挺过来了， 甚至应该说， 还过得比一般人要成功。

我相信有这样的事情发生， 也真的有人挺过来了， 媒体报道以及渲染是必不可少， 但， 我们不正是需要这样的楷模来为我们打气么？就像女主到了泰国普吉岛看到海啸后的情形一样， 我们是需要这样的激励， 才能激发出自己的斗志与潜力的。

望永不放弃！

“我不知道为什么可怕的事情会发生，但我们必须相信不幸的同时会带给我们新的希望。”这是Bethany的老师在事故后劝她的话。

“我不需要容易，我需要可能性。”当爸爸告诉Bethany 要重新去冲浪不是那么容易的事，Bethany是这样回答的。“可能性永远都是存在的”爸爸的回答。

“你并没有失去一切，你离失去一切还很远，鲨鱼没有夺走你，你还在我们中间”当Bethany灰心时，爸爸是这样劝她的。

“谢谢你，谢谢你一直和我针锋相对，这对我很重要。”Bethany告诉她的对手。

“这怎么可以取消呢？”爸爸对这样的结果非常愤怒，“它没有被取消”Bethany甜蜜地笑了。名次根本不重要。

“现在我应该做什么？”“感觉它，享受它。用今后的一生来享受它。”

生活其实很简单，简单到我们反而无法理解，所以我们就去感受它，享受它，无论有多大的挫折。